Campari – Page 2 – Science Of Drink

February 26, 2015

Negroni Flip

Well, being a happy possessor of two antica formula red vermouths, a bottle of Campari and a bottle of gin, I’ve practically forgotten all other cocktails for the past three weeks at least. As a matter of fact, I had a similar flash sometimes in the past, for example with such awesome cocktails as Manhattan, Clover Club or Mai Tai. You might have felt something similar – you discover a cocktail and just realize that there is no reason to drink anything else. You are enjoining this libation day by day exploring a ton of ingredient combinations, comparing favorite brands and experimenting with proportions or serving or garnishes, whatever. But sooner or later you also just understand that you should move on. And here you need something bright, something especial for closing the chapter.

So, for ending this Negroni flash I picked out the Negroni Flip – a modern curious Negroni-themed concoction that, as I could find out, had been created in a Seattle based restaurant Delancey. The recipe had been shared on Food52.com about a year ago by, if I’m not mistaken, creators or just inspirators – Molly Wizenberg and Brandon Pettit. Actually, I’m absolutely sure, it is an exciting idea to combine two [of my favorite] cocktail things – Negroni and flip. I was really curious how it would work together.

Negroni Flip

30 ml gin
30 ml sweet vermouth
30 ml Campari
7 ml rich sugar syrup (1:2)
1 whole egg
Add all the ingredients in a shaker and shake very hard without ice, then add ice and chill the cocktail. Strain into a tumbler and garnish with an orange peel.

This Negroni Flip turned out (as expected! as expected!) to be absolutely great! Everything is right in this cocktail – whole egg, as in a real flip (it’s known, that yolk has its own taste which actively forms a taste, not only a foamy texture), and a spoon of rich sugar syrup, which helps to combine whole Negroni with a whole egg and, in fact, makes the cocktail.

Negroni Flip has a distinguished sweet-and-bitter-herbal-savory taste with a bright recognizable bitter note of Campari, velvety herbal richness of vermouth and gin. Also it acquires a wonderful super-smooth texture from a beaten egg. As а result we have a velvety-smooth, well-balanced, bitter-sweet cocktail. An excellent cocktail, undoubtedly, or, rather, an excellent flip 8)

Now, some words about ingredients. Negroni Flip was noted to need quite a powerful, potent gin (which can stand against a whole egg), and a similar vermouth. My ultimate choice in Negroni Flip is my new Cinzano 1757, which, thanks to its a magnificent bitter artemisia note, works here exceptionally well.

And finally I have to write something about raw eggs in cocktails. As I came to realize this is sort of a tradition to bring this kinda pep talk to readers about eggs in cocktails at the end of every such post :) So, let’s start: Don’t be afraid of them… eggs really can give us huge pleasure… but remember about salmonella (of course, of course…)… so… use only fresh organic eggs from a local farmer’s market … (you had better know the farmer for ages. What kind of stuff does he feed down to his chickens?)… or use pasteurized eggs… if you believe in pasteurization… or just rely on good luck… if you believe in good luck… or… read something much serious about that for example here 8)

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February 12, 2015February 23, 2015

Contessa Cocktail (and Negroni Antica Formula)

Well, despite having quite a difficult time for cocktail blogging (my country is still under a villainous attack), I still continue my exploring of such a great phenomenon as the American Cocktail. However, today I am going to deal with two totally European (specifically Italian) things that had been a great part of an American Cocktail practically since the Golden Age. I am talking about red vermouth and one of the best cocktails which utilize it – Negroni Cocktail.

I have at least two big reasons to review my love for Negroni – one is getting an acquaintance with a pretty nice twist on a classic Negroni – the Contessa Cocktail and the other is a long-awaited testing of Carpano Antica Formula – one of the most celebrated sweet vermouths.

This post was started right before the New-Year’s Day while I was looking through my site stats (You see, WordPress.com sends a pretty cute yearly review every December). And I was really surprised that my last posts (I mean, posts that were written during the last few years) weren’t as popular as the earlier ones (about all kinds of stuff like Creme Brulee Martini, Long Island Iced Tea or Passion Cosmo :) Seemingly, my new, refined cocktail taste, which has been forming for years, does not satisfy an average reader… But similar things I notice also with my guests, when trying to share with them my latest favorite concoctions. Actually it does not bother me that much ;) , but sometimes I am thinking of, you know, popularizing of the cocktail culture, so I should be ready to offer my guests something more acceptable as an entry point in a wonderful world of True Cocktails.

There is usually no problem to offer such a drink to a newbie if we speak about highballs, sours or tikis. But if we speak about aromatic cocktails, it seems to be an issue. Especially it is difficult in case of Negroni – undoubtedly, one of the best aromatic cocktails in the world.

Obviously the main challenge of aromatic cocktails is a combination of strength and bitterness. And we must admit it, not all people are ready to take it up 8) At any rate – from the first sip (but, probably, many of them would be ready for a second one, if only the first wasn’t SO bitter ;)

Thus, this challenging bitterness of Negroni, which is considered as its main merit by the connoisseurs, might be an insuperable difficulty for a newbie. Maybe it sounds grotesque to somebody, but it is a bitter truth in the case of Negroni 8) It contains a significant amount of Campari – a palatable bitter from Italy, which, by the way, wasn’t banned even during Prohibition as a result of its strong bitter taste. No joke!

That is why I guess it is so important to have some trick or some secret that will be able to make your favorite Negroni slightly more palatable (but not worsen it!) for your dear newbie but still so enjoyable for you 8) And, it seems, now I’ve found such a trick! 8)

As a matter of fact this is absolutely easy and obvious – just switch “the Great and Powerful» Campari to a thing, that sometimes is defined as baby-Campari, – the Aperol.

Campari and Aperol are pretty similar – both are classified as aperitif, both are based on some herbal stuffs – herbs, roots, citrus fruits etc. Finally they both have a bright red color! And they both have an unique rich bitter-sweet taste which encapsulates great Italian lifestyle feeling. So, even though they have different bitterness and alcohol content, they have similar style.

I tasted this switch in the Contessa cocktail, the recipe for which I had found on Serious Eats a long time ago. But it may be not an original idea – there are many bartenders who come up with this trick. So, this name is relatively nominal.

Aperol Negroni aka Contessa Cocktail

30 ml gin
30 ml sweet vermouth
30 ml Aperol
Stir with ice and strain over a large ice cube into an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with an orange twist.

I think, the best definition for Contessa Cocktail is a bland Negroni. As for me, it is still a good Negroni because it still is a rich, bitter-sweet, full of herbs, botanicals, species, velvety smooth aromatic drink. The only difference is an absence of a challenge 8) But if it is necessary, you can explore No Baloney Negroni – another Aperol Negroni version from Camper English ;)

As I could ascertain Contessa cocktail was an universal favourite with many people, who usually didn’t enjoy aromatic cocktails, especially women. So, this cocktail gave me an opportunity to share my love for Negroni with some people I love 8) Perfect!

And finally I want to say some words about a true classic Negroni, especially about the red vermouth in it.

Can you belive it, that in spite of being a huge fan of aromatic cocktails, especially Martinez, Negroni, Manhattan, I have never tasted such an exciting and famous rosso vermouth as Carpano Antica Formula? Actually this vermouth is absolutely unavailable on the Ukrainian market as well as in the duty-free shops that were visited by my wife 8) So, I always contented myself with available rosso vermouths – such as Martini & Rosso, Cinzano and Gancia and, I’m pretty sure, I always obtained good results [Certainly I avoid using cheap local vermouths or suspiciously cheap brands]. But, of course, I had been dreaming about Carpano Antica Formula for a long time.

The reason of this long-term dreaming was so obvious. A vast majority of American cocktail bloggers, bartenders, enthusiasts consider Carpano Antica Formula the best rosso vermouth in the world and the most authentic ingredient for many classic vermouth libations, especially Manhattan [even though it is vermouth alla vaniglia – a slightly different kind of vermouth than a regular rosso vermouth di Torino]. So, I could not slur the fact over and I must have made quite an effort to obtain this legendary vermouth and scrutinize it. I was extremely curious whether it could bring something new and unique to my beloved cocktails. I started with a Negroni Cocktail.

Negroni Cocktail

30 ml gin
30 ml sweet vermouth
30 ml Campari
Stir with ice and strain over a large ice cube into an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with an orange wedge.

Before describing my impressions of a Negroni Cocktail with Carpano Antica Formula vermouth, let me point out some main Negroni characteristics which make a Negroni Negroni. Strong bitterness. Herbal richness. A powerful palate full of botanicals. A well balanced bitter-sweet drink. Theoretically, a difference between two good Negronis may be attributed to the peculiar properties of gin / rosso vermouth. Also, the sweetness of vermouth matters. Being a protagonist of an ancient cocktail feeling, or, in simpler terms, having a sweet tooth, I prefer cocktails balanced on the sweet side and, consequently, I love really sweet sweet vermouth in my cocktails 8) Thus, I’ve preferred Gancia Rosso in my Negronis for a long time.

Well, getting back to the point, the Negroni Cocktail with Carpano Antica Formula vermouth was perfect! So rich. So flavorful. With a palate full of herbs, roots and, well, beans ;) With an extremely pleasant vanilla note. Great! But… You know… It wasn’t greater than my regular Negroni with a Gancia Rosso 8) Rather different, yes, great, but not better. And I don’t think that it is something bad ;)

As it often happens, life made my cocktail adventures even more interesting – as soon as I possessed the Carpano Antica Formula I suddenly ran into another fancy red vermouth product – Cinzano 1757, so I had a great opportunity to organize a real «Antica Formula» red vermouth contest 8) [As a matter of fact an Ukrainian label of Cinzano 1757 vermouth contains such a signature, also the Gancia Rosso Vermouth label has signatures «1850» and «Antica Ricetta», so, they match this contest too ;)]

Straight up, on the rocks or in the Negroni – neither could let me pick a winner. In fact, as such a cool vermouth adept as Martin Doudoroff notices, there isn’t a ~~champion~~ platonic ideal :) At least all of these three «antica formula» vermouths are great products which give rich, deep, powerful, very aromatic cocktails. So cool. So distinguished. Just as I love 8)

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December 4, 2014

Three Faces

Every fall I obsess about the same thing – strong and aromatic cocktails with rum. Additionally, I prefer pretty sweet and quite powerful drinks – like Old-Fashioneds or Negronis. However, that kind of mixes, especially with light rum, is so rare, probably, because substantially all famous light rum cocktails were invented in places with hot climate so they are sours [which I, personally, prefer primarily in the summertime]. That’s why I am very happy every time if I manage to find something interesting on that score.

The Three Faces Cocktail was found on the CocktailDB several years ago. Actually, the CocktailDB is a very reliable source of worthy drinks, therefore, I suppose, this drink must have a certain reputable origin. Obviously, I made an attempt to investigate some facts about the Three Faces, at least to see what is the earliest time I could find it mentioned anywhere in print. But a solid hour of googling and flipping through a dozen old manuscripts and yet one dozen modern books, especially bibles, from the beginning of the past century up till now, gave me absolutely zero results. It seems like an absolutely rare cocktail with an unclear story.

The construction is something like a disproportioned Negroni – light rum as a base (instead of gin), sweet and herbal Galliano instead of sweet and herbal Italian vermouth, and Campari – the keystone of Negroni, is on the scene too. The name of the cocktail as though alludes to an authentic lineup. Three faces – one is Giuseppe Galliano, another is Gaspare Campari, and the other, casually anonymously indicated as light rum, is, let me speculate, … Focundo Bacardi!? 8)

Three Faces

30 ml light rum
30 ml Galliano
15 ml Campari
splash of soda [optional]
Pour liquors in a rocks glass filled with ice cubes. Stir and add a splash of soda then garnish with an orange peel.

In practice, I prepare this cocktail by stirring instead of building. Also I reduce a splash of soda since in the fall I am, as a rule, hydrated enough ;)

In spite of the fact that all the ingredients are (or even seem) branded liquor, there is room for several mixology experiments. First of all, it seems a perfect opportunity to play with two different versions of Galliano liqueur – Vanilla and l’Authentico. And, in any case, this is a chance to try some different stuffs that are called “light rum” [and also clarify the difference from a white one].

While I was at work on this cocktail I suddenly remembered that I had tasted this cocktail some years ago. I also found a diary note about making its acquaintance – at that moment I had mixed Three Faces with a certain white rum (it seems, it was Cuban Havana Club Anejo Blanco, my favorite light rum at that time) and Galliano Vanilla (old) liqueur. I’m pretty certain that I liked the drink, otherwise I wouldn’t have taken its pictures. But, it seems, I didn’t like it enough for blogging about.

This time a first cocktail I mixed was with Campari, Galliano l’Authentico and Bacardi Superior. It is an excellent drink! It was clear from the first sip – it is a terrific use of Galliano l’Authentico liqueur. Its compose botanical nose and a palate with a preponderant anise note complete this sophisticated digestif perfectly. You don’t need more than a couple of sips to realize that Galliano l’Authentico is a base spirit of this drink, as light rum isn’t more than a diluent. The main play goes between two distinctive Italian liquors, and I should admit it, their powerful tastes combine wonderfully here. Rum plays a supporting role – it fittingly dilutes and balances the mix. Perhaps rum does bring certain sweet rum-y notes, but it’s not so easy here.

However Galliano Vanilla can’t stand up to Galliano l’Authentico in this cocktail. This version of Galliano looks too simple in the face of the authentic brother. Obviously Vanilla isn’t able to effect so voluptuously as l’Authentico. By the way, it is the first time than I’ve been so satisfied with new old Galliano l’Authentico [as opposed to in Golden Cadillac, but this is another story]. It seems like exceptionally worthy stuff.

Rum contest was relatively short at this time. As a matter of fact Bacardi rum [I used not common Bacardi Superior but Bacardi Superior Heritage Limited Edition 44,1% – the anniversary edition of the famous rum. Posh, expensive and undoubtedly recognizable.]… so, the rum worked pretty nice even in my first drink, but I decided to try something, you now, a little bit more flavorful in the drink. So I tasted several light rums of the Spanish tradition such as Matusalem Platino, Havana Club Anejo Blanco and 3 y.o. The first two rums give absolutely splendid cocktails but the other brings some odd notes that in fact ruins the drink [this also demonstrates the difference between light and white rums, by the way. All is not light that white, folks!]. Consequently, I refused tasting even more heavy rums in this cocktail.

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